I have two 2001 Mercruiser 5.0L EFI Bravo II's on my houseboat with 6 of the blue plastic wing nut drain plugs on each engine. The two blue plastic wing nuts on each side of the blocks are a royal PITA to remove and replace to drain the blocks for winterization. The wing nuts are a straight thread 1/2 -13 which use the o ring for sealing. Has anyone run across any alternative plug like a petcock that uses this type of thread ?

I have read suggestions for removing the brass bushings and installing NPT fittings in the block but I am hesitant to do that. If I break one I have a bigger issue plus the starboard fitting is a "Y" with and anti-knock sensor I don't want to booger up.

Any input would be appreciated.

I recommend going to a good hardware store. Many times if the person is very knowledgable they can provide you with something similar.

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I have already done that. What I am looking for is a basically a bolt thread fitting for plumbing application. The closest I have found is a 1/2" - 14 thread barb fitting for automotive fuel applications. Why Merc chose a 1/2" - 13 thread for the blue plugs is beyond me. I will probably have to get some 1/2 brass stock and fabricate my own. I have already winterized for the season and have until next fall to figure this one out. That will also allow all of the cuts and bruises to heal from this years winterization.

A company in Arkansas does have a kit called Minute Drain which will do what I am attempting but at $298 per engine is a bit much IMHO.

Most of the time the Blue Winged plugs are hard to pull because they were tightend to much. I found that just snugging them up a little made next year a lot easyier. It also makes them less prone to breaking.

If it's just the access that's the problem, you could "remote" them. The bases of the drains are 1/4" NPT. Just replace them with a 1/4" NPT to 3/8" barb fitting and run a hose to the foward side of the motor. I would stay with the blue drain plug on the other end by mirroring the motor side fitting. I will suggest pulling the exhaust manifolds. They appear be extra work but they pull easy and the extra space will be worth it. Use a board across the gunnals and a tie down strap to take the load off them when dealing with the hardware. I will warn you that this line will plug up with rust & mud and you will need to blow it out with compressed air & ensure it drains.

The exhaust manifolds are easy enough drain, pull the hoses, the first year is the hardest (or if the clamp was to tight from the previous fall)

As for the fuel pump/ power steering cooler, Pull the hose off of the T-stat housing and flush out the water with non-toxic antifreeze thru the intake (or sea strainer) with the engine running. It takes one gallon. I use a clear 1 1/4" hose with a 90* fitting at the t-stat to see the anti-freeze purge thru. This is also a good indicator of how good the sea water pump is. If the pump will not pull A/F thru the pick up, you will find a bad impeller. After the initial Purge of the accessory coolers & pump reconnect the line to the T-stat and continue with the flushing & fogging of the motor. At a minimum you know that the first slug of anti freeze to hit the motor is pure. If you only leave the motor drained that works also. Don't forget to drain the "J" hose at the circ pump.

It's wordy but I hope it helps

Thanks for the info Ski. My game plan is to "Remote" the block drains. I located some 1/2" OD brass tubing that I can thread to 1/2 x 13 with a wing nut and o ring it should fit the OEM Brass drain fitting. I will put a hose on it and a valve on the lower end. The passage will be a tad small but the worst case if they plug is to take the fitting back out and drain like I normally do. My lake is extremely clean with no sediment and very little debris, plus I have inline strainers on both engines. I keep the blocks filled with antifreeze during the off season so rust accumulation is virtually nil.

Take a photo of it when it's done, we're always looking for a better mouse trap. Here again don't be afraid to pull the exhaust. Another trick I use is two bolts with the heads cut off, threaded into the cylinder head a couple of turns with lots of lube. I install them at the ends of the manifold and use them as guides. After the manifold is in place I notch the holes open on the gasket, this allows you to drop it in from the top. Install the remainder bolts finger tight you'll need some slop to get the guides out.

If the 4" outlet hoses give you a hard time during removal just pull the goose necks off first. WD40 them on reinstall and it all slips together nicely. Use the Merc gaskets they have a graphite coating that makes the cleaning easy the next time it needs to come apart (always do the job like your the next guy to be back) Pulling the exhaust does make the port starter easyier to change.

Have fun, Ken

Thanks for the tips Ken, but I am 62 with two bad knees so I can't handle that anymore. I had thought about pulling the brass fittings and using NPT fittings but I have seen several posts elsewhere about people breaking the brass fittings. Using the existing fittings seems an easier first try. There is a company that makes a kit which adapts to the brass fittings but at $298 per engine it is a bit much for me particularly for two kits.

Minute Drain :: Marine Engine Drain Systems

It looks pretty much what I was proposing and going the extra step to service the seawater pump. I do like the manifold and wrench. Have fun