Before I swapped the sensors, double check or replace the t-stat on that side, as if sticking open it will make that bank run colder and ECU will add additional fuel to "heat" that side. If t-stats do not cure it, swap the sender and retest.

Well Faztbullet I went for another run after swapping over t-stats and still had the nagging issue on cylinder 2. Changed over sensors but problem still stayed.
Pulled out injectors and soaked them in power tune for a few hours and then switched the top 2 for the bottom 2 so I could see if the problem followed that injector. I also filled the fuel rail with Powertune.
Went for a run and sat on 2 km per litre at 3500rpm. Could not make the fault happen again, tried trolling around on 1200rpm, tried turning off motor and fished for an hour...restarted and ran faultlessly all afternoon.

Havent seen this sort of economy for 6 months

Thanks again for you valuable help in nutting out this problem...hopefully thats it for now, I will drop back every now and then to let you know how it's going.

Have a great 2010

cheers.

You welcome and anytime...

Hi Guys,

Well, all has been running very nicely with the EFI until winter
When the air temp is below 10 degrees C the EFI runs rich over 1500rpm and will eventually foul number 2 plug again.

It starts perfectly, idles perfectly but will foul the plug if i run under 4000rpm. Once the air temp starts warming up its all back to normal with a cruise of 3300rpm @ 2km per litre.
When air temps are cold I get 1.2km per litre and will eventually foul number 2 plug.

MAP sensor has been replaced

All plugs look perfect when air temp is up.

All plugs look slighter darker and number 2 is black on the porcelain and tip when air temps are cold.

Im thinking Air temperature Sensor but dont want to be throwing money at spare parts if not necessay.

There is NO errors on the DDT.

Do the thermostats control temps once the poppet takes over? The motor warms up to 62 degrees C while idleing but drops very quickly when over 1200rpm to around 30 degrees C and does not warm back up until ideling again.
All temperatures are taken from SmartCraft

Please let me know if you have ideas.

cheers,

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Personally I think this car is a piece of crap, myself being young would not drive this thing around town lol.

What do you guys think?

Problem fixed (for now) The MAP sensor that installs into the top of the intake manifold was full of oil. I assume this would mean the MAP wouldnt read the higher vacuum pressure at low rpm causing a overly rich fuel mixture which evntually fouled the coldest cylinder ..No.2.

Over 4000rpm it ran perfect because vacuum is low so the MAPs signal would be correct.

cheers